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Tips and Tricks
Posted On 2010-10-17 , 8:55 AM
Tips and Tricks with the "Leader".
We will try to show you some different ways to present the leader - under different circumstances and conditions.
The more tricks you can, the greater the success - both in terms of fishing and pleasure. We'll try to show you
some of these tricks here.
The main part of fly anglers prefer to fish with a single fly - because that is the easiest way of fly fishing - but not
always the most effective way.
A few decades back, wet-fly fishers discovered that using more than one fly was more effective. Naturally, the
chances are greater catching fish if there are more than a fly in the water during fly fishing. Also, using more
than one fly, you can test out different flies for this particular day.
British Tricks.
In the UK, this technique is further developed when "boat-fishing" on quiet water. The so-called "loch style"
fly fisher-men normally use three different types of flies.
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At the end of the leader, they use a "heavy" nymph which will go deeper in the water. The central leader should contain a normal weighted nymph or similar and the "top drop" - a large dry fly.
The "top drop" will then be a kind of indicator and atraction for the fish. The fish will see the big dry fly and go for it. On his way up, the fish will take one of the smaller nymphs (hopefully). |
The leader should not be longer than the fly rod and the central leader should be about 4-6 inches long and
stiff. Fishing this way, you can test out 3 different flies on 3 different depths at the same time. Using this
technic from land is very difficult and perhaps impossible.
Two-Ways - "Wet" or "Wet and Dry".
Here you can see two simple ways of using the leader
(with 2 nymphs or similar flies).
Instead of using a leader-tip in the center, you can ty up the fly on the latter part of the main leader. Let the heaviest fly be in the end. |
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The upper fly can also be a dry fly, which should be well-floating and atractive to the fish. This way, the dry fly will be both an atractor and a strike indicator.
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Leader with Indicator.
When the water is very dark or you're fishing deep, it's a great help using strike indicators. You can buy some or simply use syntetic yarn. Ty the indicator to the top of the leader as shown here.
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Control In Deep Water.
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Sometimes it is absolutely nessesary to get the wet flies go deep in the water as quickly as possible. Use some "split lead-weights" on the leader a foot or two (12-24 inches) in front of the fly. Be careful when "clamping" in place the lead-weights to not harm the thin leader-tip.
When fishing deep in the water, the best thing is to use a strike indicator even if it might be hard to see when the fish bites the fly. |
You could try out the "polish way" of nymph fishing - providing pressure with the slightest suspicion of bites.
Butterfly.
Here you can see an other way of fishing deep in the water. We're not using a strike indicator and the fly knot is different. We're using a "loop knot" - the Rapala knot or a Duncan's loop knot. We should use "lead-weight" to get the fly deep in the water here too.
Using this option, you have to fish in a more active way. You should fish by drawing the line using hand twist. The fly (nymph) will swim like a jig. It will be like waves in the water - like a butterfly in slow motion. |
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| Indicators |
"Split Lead-Weights" |
These informations has been rewritten our own way from an original article by; Alt Om Fiske, Norway
http://www.klikk.no/produkthjemmesider/altomfiske/article325559.ece
Photos: Barry Ord Clarke
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Tips About Outshore Fishing - Destination Regarding Classic Big-game Fishing!
Posted On 2010-10-06 , 5:47 AM
The coast of Kenya, Cuba and Cairns in Australia are among the greatest destination regarding to the classic big-game fishing.
Kenya is probably the place on earth where the chances are greatest to catch marlin. But the average size is not among the largest. We're talking about a fish of "only" 100 kg.
When fishing at the coast of Kenya, striped marlin are the most numerous species, but you might also catch the black marlin. The Blue marlin, the greatest trophy for a big-game fisherman, are rare. Sailfish are in great number.
There are not many other places in the world but outside the coast of Kenya where it will be easier to catch swordfish.
Outside the coast of Watamu, there is a great possibility for a close encounter with the super fast mako shark or the incredible strong tiger shark which can be up to 500 kg.
Species of fish you can catch in these aerea are: king fish, tuna, dorado, wahoo, barracuda and all the other species most commonly associated with tropical fish.
Snappere and groupere is also available in large quantities.
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Expand the fly fishing season - Go for the Pike with pike flies.
Posted On 2010-07-03 , 12:56 AM
A sullen salmon fisher may want to fish with flies both before and after the regular season. Where I come from, there have been no tradition to fish for pike with flies, but a couple of years ago I was invited by some friends of mine to give it a try.
The salmon season was over and I was again eager to fish. The sea trout fishing went unfortunately wrong, but as mentioned before, I had been invited to try fly fishing for pike instead - I was happy.
We should use one-handed fly fishing rods of class 8 and were fishing with floating line. A relative short Tapert leader was used. As a tip, we used approximately 30 cm Kevlar line with a tensile strength of more than 20 kg. I had realized that there were predators that we were looking for. The flies we used looked quite weird, tied on a large single hook with all material found behind the hook bend.
In two boats, we were transported to the one Mother place after an other. We fished the reed edges in shallow water. We threw the fly into the reed edge and was told to fish by tugging the fly, but at the same time continuing pulling. Almost without exception, the pike returned and took the fly.
I could see the advantage with how the flies were tied. They were durable and we got a good grip on the hook shaft when it was released. In the course of a day's fishing, we had more than 40 pike. All were taken on the fly.
In cold water the pike normally stay close to the reed edge in shallow water. They stay hiding and waiting for a suitable mouthful. You should try a floating line and leader with 0.40 point.
When the water gets warmer, the pike pulls out in deeper water. Then we need to fish deeper with a intermediate- or sinking line.
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Mistakes or Errors that can occur for any Fly Fisher!
Posted On 2010-06-29 , 8:39 PM
There are many ways of learning. Either read them to the knowledge of others' experiences, or learn at your own experimentation. The last one is the hard way but you will remember your own mistakes. I myself have practiced both methods.
- The Brake is not adjusted correctly!
Personally, I have not been exposed to this, but I have seen the results many times. I have been helping several new bees adjusting the brakes correctly and explained the necessity of this. But.....(this has happened often)... as soon as I've turned my back to the person, he has tightened the brake as he wanted him self. As soon as a salmon took the fly, the fly fisher man had big trouble keeping the rod over the water - result; the leader broke.
With the brake turned completely off can lead to backlash, which of cause is a bad start to the run the salmon.
- Fly Knot
I have always tried to use the Thurles's knot. The first year I often used a simple knot. I remember it as if it were today; I had arrived the fishing place, connected on a fly with a simple knot. On the break I felt that big fish had taken the fly. The run started.... Shortly everything was over. The knot didn't make it .. I promised myself - never again a simple knot when fly fishing for salmon!
- Knot on the Leader
To get a "knot" on the leader is mostly a newbie mistake, but it can happened anyone. I remember that I had registered a hopeless knot on the leader under one of my salmon fishing adventures one evening. I approached the best part of the river and would rather not go out of the river, so I continued. I was excited when I saw a nice salmon in front of me. Two throws later, the salmon took the fly. But the fight was short - in favor of the salmon...
- Fresh Leader Material
Do not rely on last year's material, if you do not know how it has been stored. The Leader may be rotten due to damage or that it has been over time, in sunlight. Check the leader and replace it with a new.
- Fly Fishing without the Fly or with damaged Hook
The fly and the leader should be checked periodically. It's easily done to smash the fly, or lose it. If throwing is without problems, despite the shrubbery around, it is yet another reason to see if there are any flies there. An other thing to be aware of is if you can hear a sizzling sound during throwing, there might be some problems with the fly. It's better to check it out before continuing throwing.
- Cranking the Leader onto the Reel
How often I do not see this happening after the end of fly fishing season. If not fixed before the next time you go fly fishing, the leader might be pulled out incorrectly with the fatal error of total blocking of the reel and of cause - lost salmon as a result.
My advice: Let the leader hang 20 cm out of the reel.
- Remaining on the same place
It is very easy when throwing skills are limited, to remain on a place where you have good space around you. In the beginning I did this myself, but I was whipped forward by my fishing buddy.
His advice was: move about a meter away from where the fly has finished fishing before you start the next roll.
- Stand still when Fly Fishing
This point is related to previous one. Having thrown out the fly and looking over your own shoulder finding an other fisherman close to you, then walking a few yards down to keep space. Much of this roll is then destroyed. Once you begin to move downstream when the fly is fishing, the fly will go on its own into the stream and will be perceived as some trash that always is flouting around in the river.
- Control the Grips
If the grips slip from each other when throwing, this will have catastrophic consequences. Even if the fly fishing rod costs several hundred dollars, this might happened. This can be prevented by carefully waxing, or you can "cross-tape" the grips. Normal electrical tape can be used. A tip is to not cut the tape when it is stretched ....
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About Provoking or Irritating the Salmon!
Posted On 2010-06-28 , 7:47 PM
I would like to talk about a fly pattern I've had great success with juring my hunt for the salmon. Try to note the pattern of black, yellow, blue.... I'm not bluffing when I'm writing this, and many think certainly it's strange that I publish this ...
Normally when I tie salmon flies, I try to make the fly as a small fish. I've had great success with this. As known, the salmon do not eat while in the river, but it's good to be aware of one thing; the salmon do want to protect its territorial area, and will attack and chase away other predators that are close.
Try to use a synthetic fiber material like "shrinky" or similar when you build your new fly. These wave-shaped fibers can be found in many different colors.
I use to build up a wing and cut it so that it's almost drop-shaped. As a wing I often use fox hear.
A tube fly that is made this way does not collapse, even in strong current water. The color scheme of the fly should be like a fish - light on the abdomen, a little discreet colors on the body and dark on the back. I've tried my way around and ended up with several diferent types - tube fly types that is very effective on the salmon.
Try it for yourself the next time you tie up a new fly for catching the salmon.
I usually tie my tube flies on a 4/0 single hook designed for silk-worm gut. These hooks are ideal for this purpose.
1. Bottle tube functioning body. A sub-wing is made of yellow shrinkyfiber. Of a bundle of about 25 fibers, I tie two delta wings and thereafter I make the top wing 2-3 times longer. The wings should be cut pointing backwards. It is important to put on a drop of glue or paint to tie the wings together.
2. The between wings is tied up with black shrinkyfiber the same way as the under the wings, but they should be 5 to 10 mm longer. Then cut the wing tips, as mentioned before - pointing backwards.
3. On the top wing I use a bunch of black fox hear. I use to comb the woollen part of the fox hear - then dragging the rest backwards.
4. As topping, I use a feather type. These I put under the tying thread one by one. The hackle will be tied as a collar. I attach the feather in root tip and wrap the hackle forward. The feather fibers will then become shorter and shorter and the fly will get a nice collar. The head is formed and tightended with thread. The inner tube should be cut approximately 2 mm from the thread. The paint/glue on the fly head, should be applied with dubbing needle to avoid glue on the wings. On the tube hook, I add a drop of "Aqua Sure" or similar to avoid that the hair sticks to it.
Enjoy your fly fishing...............
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